12 Bunny Facts You May Not Know

1. Bunnies are lagomorphs, NOT rodents.

• Although bunnies resemble hamsters and mice in appearance (eg: the teeth, the nose-mouth area), they are NOT rodents though often wrongly classified as so.

• Lagomorphs are herbivores, whereas rodents are usually omnivores. 
  
  
  
  Emil from Worringer Kaninchenstall

2. Bunnies have an average lifespan of 10 years.

• Bunnies mature at 6 months old, and with good care, constant love and attention, they can live up to 10 years or even more.

3. A bunny's diet consists mainly of hay, NOT carrots!

• When it comes to bunnies, almost all cartoons feature them eating carrots. In reality, however, too much carrots (or other fruits) causes bacterial imbalance in a bunny's gut. This condition could potentially lead to death within days.

• Unlimited Timothy hay MUST be given to bunnies. The hay provides fibre which ensures a healthy digestive system.

Only Bugs Bunny and other cartoon buns eat carrots.

Real bunnies eat hay!

Left: Timothy hay; Right: Jippie eating hay from a metal ball

4. A bunny's teeth DOES NOT stop growing!

• And therefore, here comes another importance of hay. A bunny's teeth naturally wears down as they chew and eat hay (due to the opposing action of the teeth).

• If a bunny's teeth are not worn down, they could potentially overgrow. This causes discomfort and pain to the bunny and he/she will have problems eating.
  
  
  
  Coco from 家有寶貝兔, yawning - look at those bunny teeth!

5. Bunnies must NEVER be picked up by their ears or scruff!

• Again, cartoons often feature magicians picking out bunnies from their hats in this way. This is actually horribly dangerous and wrong! 
  
  

  Picked up by the ears - WRONG.

  
  

  

• A bunny's ears have many important functions such as:
• consisting of delicate blood vessels
• hearing sounds from different directions
• regulating body temperature

• Picking up a bunny by his/her ears could potentially:
• cause irreparable damage to the ears, resulting in severe problems such as deafness.
• cause a bunny to fall and break his/her back, as this method does not secure the bunny properly.

6. Bunnies poop constantly.

• Completely different from dogs and cats (who only carry out their business once or twice a day), healthy bunnies produce poop almost every hour throughout the day. Yes, every hour.

The above is only a very small percentage of what my bunny, Jippie, produces daily.

7. Bunnies DO NOT stink, and they DO NOT need baths!

• Unless you're very sensitive to fur scents of animals, bunnies do not "stink". The three things I know that may be the cause of unpleasant odours are:

• the accumulation of urine or soft poop at the bum - however, this will be unlikely if you feed them the correct diet consisting of unlimited Timothy hay.

• the feeding of cheap, low-quality pellets.

• a dirty cage and uncleaned play area.

• Bunnies groom themselves clean everyday. Therefore, bunnies practically don't need baths at all! Unless the bunny is disabled (eg: has a splayed leg), very rarely does a situation arise where he/she needs a body bath. Baths are often stressful to a bunny.
  
  
  
  Fridolin from Worringer Kaninchenstall, about to wash his ears.

8. Bunnies consume cecotropes.

• Cecotropes are partially digested food that are reingested by bunnies to obtain nutrients. As a bunny bends down to consume his/her daily cecotropes directly from the anus, many people, unfortunately, mistakes this as eating poop.

• Here are the differences between cecotropes and normal bunny poop:
  
  
  
  Differences between cecotropes and normal poop.

A bunny (pictured: Dutchie) would bend down and consume his/her cecotropes directly from the anus

9. Bunnies are NOT stay-in-cages animals.

• No companion animal should be kept in a cage 24/7. You can put a bunny inside a cage, but most of the time, the bunny should be outside the cage.

• Consequences of keeping a bunny in a cage for long hours:

• The bunny becomes more territorial and wary towards humans (eg: biting when you attempt to pet him/her)

• The bunny becomes stressed and tends to have a shorter lifespan. (Imagine being cooped up in a holed box yourself, where you can only walk a few steps around everyday.)

Dutchie: Lemme out! I demand to see my lawyer!

(Dutchie going nuts when I was only locking him up in his cage to mop the floor)

10. Most bunnies DO NOT enjoy being carried up.

• By natural history, bunnies are ground-dwelling prey animals. It is against the nature of a bunny to be held above ground where his/her motions are strongly restricted.

• A bunny will struggle and kick when held against his/her will in such a situation. This could potentially injure both you and your bunny. If the bunny falls, he/she could even break his/her neck, back, or legs.

• Bunnies prefer humans to sit or lie beside them on the ground at bunny-eye level - and us to be generous with our pets, of course.

11. Bunnies are sociable animals.

• Unknowing humans claim bunnies to be "boring" and "lazy". This is not the truth at all! When one has a good relationship with his/her bunnies, these furry creatures can do many sweet and adorable things for you, such as:

• leave their current lounging location just to be around you.

• nose-bonk your legs if you just got back home from school or work.

Jippie's eyes flipped on to Sparkling Mode when he wants vegetables or treats.

• The key to a good relationship is frequent interaction between human and bunny. DO NOT keep your bunny in a cage.

• However, it might take a few months before a bunny shows obvious friendly gestures mentioned above. You should be the initiative:

• accompany your bunny everyday for a period of time, pet and talk to him/her gently all the while.

• be the one that gives their daily food (eg: hay, vegetables).

12. Every bunny has his/her own personality.

• Personality is not primarily related to breed. A bunny's personality comes first, his/her breed second. 

Dutchie is sociable and a little cheeky. He's one of the minority cuddle buns.

Jippie is shy around strangers, but he's incredibly sweet and loyal when you get to know him.

Recommended Vets in Malaysia

In Malaysia, it's easy to find vets experienced in dogs and cats. When it comes to rabbits, however ... well, speaking as a four-year-bunny-owner: it's rather hard.

Anyhow, here are two vets I've found so far in Malaysia and would recommend:

1. Dr Chan Jing Ting - Global Pets (Mutiara Mas Branch)

25, Jalan Mutiara 1/2, 

Taman Mutiara Mas,

81300 Skudai, Johor.

Tel: 012-716 6177

• Why?
  Dr Chan is the vet I bring my bunnies to. She's the best in my area. I once called to another clinic, even that vet recommended Dr Chan. Dr Chan is also a member of the Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians (AEMV).

2. Dr Jenny Huong Ling - Hands N Paws Veterinary Clinic

C-17g, Jalan PJU 1/45

Aman Suria Damansara

47301 Petaling Jaya, Selangor

Tel: 03-7804 6539

• Why?
  Dr Jenny is a member of the AEMV too. I've been searching on the Internet and she's the other vet that popped up along with Dr Chan. Dr Jenny is often praised, so I think she must be good. 
  
  
  Note: An appointment is said to be required if you want to see Dr Jenny, so better call prior your visit!

Technically, Dr Chan and Dr Jenny aren't the only vets that tend to rabbits. If you called a clinic and asked:

"Hello, 请问你们这里有看兔子的吗?" (Hello, does your vet tend to rabbits?)

“兔子？有啊。” (Rabbits? Yes.)

Unfortunately, the truth is that many vets don't know much about rabbits. A rabbit's anatomy is different from that of dogs and cats, hence they require different treatment and medication. Bringing your companion to such an irresponsible and over-confident vet could cost the life of him/her. 

Now personally, I strongly suggest that you DO NOT take your bunny to the following clinics:

1. Wondercare Vet Clinic (Klinik Haiwan Wondercare)

15 & 17, Jalan Rosmerah 2/8, Taman Johor Jaya, Johor Bahru, 81100, Johor.

• Why not?
  When I wasn't much experienced, I brought Dutchie to this vet clinic. It was very noisy and stuffy inside. Also, in my opinion, I don't even think the so-called vet is really a vet! Then, there's her assistance who joked around and not took the situation seriously. A complete disappointment. We went home with nothing.

2. Han Veterinary Surgery

50, Jalan Molek 2/2, Taman Molek, 81100 Johor Bahru, Johor.

• Why not?
  The vet is only experienced in dogs and cats, I would say. He isn't of much help to rabbits. Also, his words are rather discouraging. I will never visit this vet again.

3. Koh Animal Clinic

62, Jalan Kemunting, Taman Kebun Teh, 80250 Johor Bahru, Johor.

• Why not?
  I admit that I've never seen this vet before. However, one phone call was enough to let me blacklist this clinic. The environment there sounded chaotic even through the phone and the receptionist was extremely, extremely rude and unhelpful. I don't ever want to try my luck by visiting a vet who employed such an obvious I-don't-care-about-your-animals person.

Well, that's the list. If you are also a passionate bunny owner in Malaysia, feel free to comment below the vet you would like to recommend. :)

As a reminder: DO NOT choose a vet just because he/she is nearest to your home. We had to drive for 45 minutes to arrive at the vet's. Several fellow bunny owners I know drive even further. You brought your bunny home, and therefore he/she is your responsibility. Pets are more than companions, they are family.

Finding a rabbit vet but not living in Malaysia?
Recommended Vets in Singapore by the House Rabbit Society Singapore
Veterinary Listing (US/Canada/Australia/Hong Kong/Italy) by the House Rabbit Society

GI (Gastrointestinal) Stasis

What is GI stasis?
GI stasis (aka ileus) is a condition in which a bunny's gut slows down or stops completely. GI stasis is often fatal within days if no treatment is offered to the bunny.

Symptoms of GI stasis:

Note: Not all of the below symptoms may be present in a bunny having GI stasis. But if you notice any symptoms, even just one of them, presenting itself in your bunny, it's a situation you need to take action of.

1. No appetite

• The bunny does not eat or only consumes a few strands of hay throughout half the day. He/she has no interest in pellets, veggies, fruits or other usual foods.

2. Not producing poop

• The bunny does not produce poop at all for a few hours or more.

3. Producing very small and/or misshapen poop
Definition of 'small poop': 1/2 or smaller the size of normal poop is considered small.

• Little amount of poop is produced, and majority of the produced poop are small and/or misshapen.
  
  
  
  Difference between normal poop and small poop.
  
  
  

  
  Difference between normal poop and small and/or misshapen poop

4. Producing sticky poop OR poop produced sticks to bum bunny's bum

• The little amount of poop produced are covered in a mucus-like substance.
  
  OR
• As the bunny hops, you would see two or more poop hanging underneath the fur of the bunny's bum, near the genital area.
  
  OR 
• The little amount of poop produced sticks together. (Like two peas glued together horizontally.)
  
  Above: abnormal poop. Below: normal poop (Photo from Guide to bunny poop)
  
  
  Note: Sticky poop or mucus-covered poop are not to be confused with cecotropes, which is something really normal and essential that needs to be consumed by a healthy bunny everyday. Bunnies usually consume their cecotropes directly from their anus, but sometimes they miss out some.
  
  Difference between cecotropes and normal poop.

5. Lethargic (=Tired and lack energy)

• Although normal, healthy bunnies do use a lot of time relaxing and resting, a sick bunny:

• has a particular lethargic look in his/her eyes.

• would not do other bunny activities (eg: eat hay, grooming, hopping to another spot to rest) for a few hours or more.

• would rest in a ball-like or hunched up position, at the same spot (usually a corner), for an hour or more.
  
  Note: resting ball-like is one of the normal resting positions, but notice: a sick bunny would rest like this for an hour or more, and not changing to other positions or doing any other bunny activities.
  

  

  Dutchie resting like ball, but he got up and begged for treats after 5 minutes.

6. Bloating

• The bunny's stomach/intestinal area would feel hard and bouncy due to a build-up of gas. A normal bunny's stomach feels soft and a little jiggly.

Before you bring your bunny to a vet, you can try the following treatment first, as travelling adds stress to a bunny.

Treatments for GI stasis
The key to successful treatment is to get food, especially fibre, into the bunny's gut so that it can move efficiently again.

1. Hay
How-to (i) - Give unlimited Timothy hay

1. Purchase a packet of Timothy hay immediately if you have not previously.
2. Place a handful of the hay in front of your bunny. If he/she finishes the given amount, place more.
   
   
   
   Oxbow Timothy hay

• Why this helps?
  Timothy hay provides fibre for a bunny's gut to move efficiently. In a proper bunny's diet, Timothy hay makes up 70%. 

How-to (ii) - Feeding strand by strand

1. Pick a fresh strand from your Timothy hay packet.
2. Wiggle it near your bunny's mouth. You can also very gently, insert a small part of the hay strand into the corner of your bunny's mouth.
3. If your bunny eats the strand of hay, pick up another fresh strand. Repeat feeding your bunny like this.
4. Do not become impatient. If you give your bunny five or six strands of hay at one go, he/she may lose interest.

• Why this helps?
  The hay helps the gut move efficiently again, and your actions gives encouragement to the bunny.

How-to (iii) - Trying other types of hay

1. If your bunny refuses to eat Timothy hay, try purchasing other types of hay. 
2. Other than Timothy hay, Oxbow offers a variety of high-fibre grass hay such as: Orchard grass, Organic Meadow hay, Oat hay and Botanical hay.
   
   
   
   Oxbow Orchard Grass
   
   
   
   Oxbow Oat hay
   
   

   

   Oxbow Botanical Hay

• Why this helps?
  The types of hay suggested each have a different texture and flavour, and so may stimulate your bunny to eat them. Hay provides the fibre needed for the bunny's gut to move smoothly. Timothy hay should also be available at all times along with these types of hay.

2. Fresh vegetables
Note: purchase organic vegetables if possible. If vegetables purchased are not organic, they must be washed thoroughly to remove pesticides.

How-to:

1. Offer 1/2 cup of vegetables to your bunny. Wet the vegetables slightly with clean, drinking water.
2. You can pat the vegetables light against the bunny's mouth to encourage eating if he/she doesn't seem to show great enthusiasm.
3. Wait for approximately 2 hours before giving another 1/2 cup of vegetables. This is to avoid the bunny becoming overfull. During this period, offer your bunny Timothy hay as mentioned above.
4. If your bunny begins to eat Timothy hay enthusiastically after eating the vegetables, excellent! Offer up to 1½ cup of vegetables for every 2lb your bunny weights for that day.
5. If your bunny does not eat the Timothy hay, continue offering 1/2 cup of vegetables at a few more times at regular intervals throughout the remainder of the day.
   (As a reminder, Timothy hay must be available at all times. Remember to also wait for a couple of hours before giving another serving of vegetables!)
6. Safe types of vegetables: 

• Baby bok choy
• Bok choy
• Cabbage
• Chinese Sharp Spinach [aka 'Yin Choy (sharp leaves)']
• Chye Sym
• Kangkong (aka 'water spinach')
• Kale

• Why this helps?
  Vegetables consists of fibre (though much lesser than hay) and increases the bunny's water intake. Along with fibre, water helps the gut to move smoothly. Also, as vegetables are delicious, they help soothe and boost the discomforted bunny's mood.

3. Fresh herbs

Note: If the herbs you purchase are not organic, remember to wash them thoroughly to remove pesticides.

How-to: 

1. Offer 1/8 cup of herbs to your bunny. Wet the herbs slightly with clean, drinking water.
2. You can pat the herbs lightly against your bunny's mouth to encourage him/her to eat.
3. You can also try gently inserting a small part of the herb's stem into the corner of your bunny's mouth.
4. Safe types of herbs:

• basil
• mint
• cilantro
• parsley
  
  

• Why this helps?
  Herbs have a pungent smell and may help stimulate your bunny to eat.

4. Fruit juices
Notes:
- if your bunny is eating hay and vegetables as mentioned above, ignore this treatment.
- juices should be freshly-made at home. DO NOT purchase juice in cans or cartons at supermarkets; those have added preservatives and are high in sugar.
-  fruit juices should be made using a juicer (the juice and pulp are separated). DO NOT use a smoothie maker. 
- fruits should be wash thoroughly before juicing to remove pesticides.
- DO NOT add sugar/salt or any other additional substances into the juice.
- water used to dilute juices should be clean, drinking water. DO NOT use tap water or any other water you would not drink. 

How-to:

1. After making the fruit juice, add some water to dilute it. This is to increase the amount of water drunk.
2. The ratio of water to fruit juice should be 1 : 1/2.
3. The final amount of fruit juice given to your bunny should be about 1/4 cup.
4. Safe types of fruits to use for juicing:

• apple
• carrot
• tomato
• watermelon

• Why this helps?
  Bunnies in GI stasis may not want to drink tasteless water, so fruit juices are good in this situation to help hydrate the bunny. Water helps the gut to move smoothly again; its function is the same during constipation in humans.
  
  Note: throughout a single day, give the 1/4 cup of juice 2 - 3 times only, as even when diluted they still contain sugar.

5. Exercise
How-to: 

1. Allow your bunny to explore new rooms in your house he/she has never been before.
2. In addition, you can let your bunny outdoors (=garden) more often.
3. The bunny should be supervised at all times.

• Why this helps?
  When a bunny hops and moves about, the gut is encouraged to move too. The treatment's logic is the same for humans with constipation.  Also, the new environment serves as a distraction, diverting the bunny's attention away from the discomfort and boosting the bunny's mood.

6. *Ear TTouches
The Tellington TTouch is a safe, gentle bodywork comprised of circular touches and subtle body lifts.

How-to:

1. Start on one side of the ear and lightly sandwich it between your thumb and index fingers. 
2. If your bunny has upright ears, slide your fingers from the base of the ear up and off the ear's edge. For a lop rabbit, use downward or lateral slides. Work the entire ear this way.
3. To get an idea of the amount of pressure, touch the skin on your eyelid and push it in a circle. 
4. You can watch this video to see how it's done (1:27):

• Why this helps?
  
  Working with ears stimulates acupressure points linked to the stomach intestines, respiration and other areas vital to recovery, so it is an effective way to help support a rabbit with GI problems.
  
  *I read this from the House Rabbit Society's website. You can read the full article here: Tellington TTouch for a Happy and Healthy Rabbit. 
  
  As well as encouraging my bunny to eat in the case of mild stasis, I would do the TTouch on their ears. I would repeat this every hour or so. Each session lasts about 5 minutes. I've found the TTouch method to be an excellent complementary treatment.

6. Praise and encouragement
How-to: 

1. Praise your bunny if you notice he/she eats hay or drunk water.
2. Pet your bunny and sit by his/her side more often during this period. Talk softly, say reassuring words.
3. If your bunny is bonded to another bunny, DO NOT separate them. GI stasis is not contagious.

• Why this helps?
  Praise boosts their mood! Living with bunnies for years taught me that they recognise human language too. They know when you're praising them.
  
  Mental support from fellow bunny companions is also important, that is why to not separate bonded bunnies.

7. Oxbow Critical Care
Note: if your bunny is eating vegetables and hay as mentioned above, ignore this treatment completely.

Oxbow Critical Care, in short, is a powder made from Timothy hay and other nutrients. It has an appetizing smell and may stimulate a bunny in GI stasis to eat it. It is mixed with water to create a muddy-like mixture

Oxbow Critical Care and how it looks like

Critical Care is now available in Anise and Apple-Banana flavour as well.

How-to (i) - Offering using a spoon:

Use a shallow spoon. If a spoon's depth is deep, it would difficult for your bunny to eat it.

1. You can watch the below video on how to prepare Critical Care properly.

How-to (ii) - Force-feeding using a syringe:
Reminder note: if your bunny is eating vegetables and hay as mentioned above, ignore this treatment completely! Force-feeding should only be used when the bunny does not want to eat anything at all by him/herself. 

Firstly, I strongly advise that if a recommended vet is in your area (scroll down to the end of this article - links are provided), visit the vet first before attempting the force-feeding method. Force-feeding is a stressful event to both bunny and human. During the vet visit, ask your vet to demonstrate the force-feeding method.

1. Use a 1 ml syringe. DO NOT use a 3 ml or larger syringe; the Critical Care will become quite impossible to squirt out later.
   
   
   
2. You can watch the below video on how to draw up Critical Care using a syringe.

Knowing the symptoms and treatments, it is also important to understand the causes of GI stasis. After all, prevention is better than cure!

Causes of GI stasis

1. Improper diet

• Lacking of high-fibre Timothy hay

• A bunny's gut would not move efficiently if he/she does not eat hay. This is the most common cause of GI stasis (and unfortunately, death due to GI stasis) in bunnies if the owner does not offer unlimited Timothy hay, due to insufficient understanding of a bunny's diet.

• Insufficient water intake

• Even if a bunny eats hay, his/her gut would not move efficiently if he/she does not drink enough water. That is why a bunny's diet should contain vegetables.

• Consuming too much high-sugar foods
• Fruits, commercial treats, and colourful (=not plain-brown) pellets are all high in sugar. Giving an excess of these encourages the growth of bad bacteria in your bunny's gut.

• Here is an article on the foods and their proportions a bunny should eat: Providing A Healthy Diet

2. Stress

• If your bunny is new to your home, he/she may become stressed due to:
• living in a new and unfamiliar environment
• you touching or petting him/her too much
• you gawking at him/her too often
• loud noises or sounds

• If your bunny has been at your home for a while, he/she may become stressed due to:
• being moved into a new environment
• property (e.g: food bowl, cage) moved to another location
• a new object/animal present in your house
• less attention from you
• loud noises or sounds
• loss of a companion

• A bunny may also become stressed and go into stasis due to other underlying diseases that is causing pain. If you suspect this, bring your bunny to a vet for a checkup.

3. Consumption of unsuitable food

• There are certain types of food bunnies should never eat. A few examples are bread, rice and nuts. Here is an article on the: 9 Types of Foods You Should NEVER Give Your Bunny

• If the food you given is safe according to articles you've read, that particular food may be unsuitable for your bunny. For example, dill isn't suitable for Jippie, although it is generally a safe bunny herb.

4. Accidental consumption of household objects

• Sometimes, bunnies chew and consume things that aren't food. Several examples are: wire, remote control buttons and plastic-made objects.

• Here is an article on the types of things bunnies tend to chew: Bunny-Proofing Your House.

5. Lack of exercise

• Bunnies cooped up in cages almost 24/7 are considered to be lacking exercise. Unable to hop about much, the gut will not be efficient.

• Being locked in a cage for long hours also causes a bunny to become stress.

Lastly are the signs of recovery. These signs tell you whether or not the treatments suggested worked!

Signs of Improvement and Recovery

1. Regaining appetite

• The bunny starts to eat hay at regular intervals.

• The bunny shows interest in treats and other foods as usual.

2. Producing poop

• Poop produced indicates that the gut is moving - certainly a good sign.

• Poop produced at first may be: small, abnormally shaped, or a little sticky.
  Continue treatments and observe your bunny. The poop should return to their normal size after a day.

3. Becoming active

• The bunny's eyes light up and return to their usual cheekiness glow.
• The bunny hops around often and goes about with normal bunny activities (eg: grooming, eating hay) as usual.

I hope that the home treatments suggested above helps your bunny, if he/she is currently in stasis.

However, if your bunny does not show any sign of recovery after a day (or if you feel the need), a vet-visit is advised.

Recommended Vets
Recommended Vets in Malaysia
Recommended Vets in Singapore
Recommended Vets (international) 

First published on 15/10/2011

9 Types of Foods You Should NEVER Give Your Bunny

1. NO Starchy or Non-leafy vegetables

• Examples of starchy vegetables: potato, sweet potato.

• Examples of non-leafy vegetables: eggplant, okra.

• Why can't bunnies eat starchy/non-leafy vegetables?
• Bunnies cannot digest starch well.

• As far as I have researched, non-leafy vegetables aren't on the 'safe' list. As bunnies have delicate digestive system, it is always better to be safe than sorry.

2. NO Carbohydrate foods

• Examples: bread, rice, cereal.

• Why can't bunnies eat carbohydrate foods?
• These foods causes bloating in the bunny. This is painful for the bunny and could lead to further problems such as GI stasis, a disease in which a bunny's gut slows down or stops completely. GI stasis can be fatal within days.

3. NO Peas/Beans/Nuts/Seeds

• Examples of beans and peas: long bean, string bean, green peas.

• Examples of nuts and seeds: peanuts, sunflower seeds, cashew nuts.

• Why can't bunnies eat peas/beans/nuts/seeds?
• These foods causes bloating in the bunny. This is painful for the bunny and could lead to further problems such as GI stasis.

4. NO Human treats/desserts/drinks

• Examples of treats/desserts: ice-cream, cookies, cake, chips.

• Examples of drinks: coffee, soya milk, coke.

• Why can't bunnies eat these human foods?
• Ice-cream and chips contains flavouring and preservatives and are high in sugar. The former two factors are likely to cause digestive system upset, the latter cultivates an environment in the bunny's gut that is suitable for harmful bacteria growth.

• Cookies and cakes contains other ingredients (eg: eggs, butter) which bunnies cannot digest.

• Drinks consumed by humans (except for fresh fruit juice and water) are not safe for bunnies because they are either high in sugar or that they contain substances which bunnies cannot digest.

5. NO Chocolate

• Why can't bunnies eat chocolate?
• Chocolate contains a substance called theobromine, which is fatally dangerous to dogs, cats, and of course, bunnies too. Animals cannot metabolize theobromine as well as humans.

6. NO Meat

• Why can't bunnies eat meat?
• Bunnies are herbivores. They are 100% vegans. Strictly NO meat, fish or any animals and/or insects!

7. NO Certain types of fruits

• Examples: durian, rambutan, mangosteen.

• Why can't bunnies eat these fruits?
• These fruits are not on the 'safe' list as far as I have researched. It can be tempting to give your bunny a taste of these fruits if you live in tropical countries like me, but please - DON'T. Bunnies have delicate digestive systems.

8. NO onions/garlic/ginger

• Examples: chive, leek, shallot.

• Why can't bunnies eat onions/garlic ginger?
• It has been known that these foods may cause: abnormal breakdown of red blood cells and possibly fatal allergic reactions in many animals.
• Onions have also been known to suppress a bunny's immune system.

9. NO Cooked food.

• Why can't bunnies eat cooked food?
• Even if the food you cooked is 100% vegan and does not contain any seasoning, please DO NOT give them to your bunny. It isn't natural for their sensitive digestive systems.

Your bunny might show enthusiasm towards the above types of foods, and would probably gladly eat them if he/she gets the chance, especially carbohydrate ones.

It will be your responsibility as the owner to keep these foods out of reach, and always - no matter how they unleash their cuteness - DO NOT ever give in!

What to Feed Your Rabbit

Bunnies have incredibly delicate digestive systems. It is of utmost importance to provide the correct foods in the correct amounts to ensure a healthy bunny!

Importance of providing a healthy diet:

• maintains a healthy and efficient digestive system in the bunny.
• maintains and improves the overall health of the bunny.
• wears down the bunny's ever-growing teeth naturally, preventing malocclusion (overgrown teeth)
• prevents obesity
• prevents GI stasis (gastrointestinal stasis), a condition in which the bunny's gut slows down/stops.

The following are the correct foods a bunny should eat and the amounts they should be given:

1. Timothy Hay

• Amount: No matter the age of a bunny (excluding unweaned baby bunnies, of course), he/she should eat unlimited Timothy hay. When the bunny finishes the given amount, DO NOT hesitate to place more.

Oxbow Timothy hay and how it looks like.

• Why hay?

• The muscles in the intestine need something to push against to move food through the gut. Hay provides roughage and fibre for a bunny's gut to move efficiently.
  
  If a bunny does not consume a high-fibre diet, this could lead to a severe, potentially fatal-within-days condition called GI stasis, in which the bunny's gut slows down/stops moving.

• Chewing hay wears down a bunny's ever-growing teeth properly, preventing malocclusion (overgrown teeth).

• Munching on hay reduces a bunny's stress and feelings of boredom. This is important when it comes to the well-being of a bunny. A stressed bunny tends to lose his/her's appetite.

• Types of hay

• There are actually two main types of hay: Timothy hay and Alfalfa hay. Timothy hay is high in fibre. Alfalfa hay is high in protein and calcium, lower in fibre.
  
  
  
  Oxbow Alfalfa hay and how it looks like.
  
  
  

  

  Difference between Timothy hay and Alfalfa hay
  
  

• For young bunnies (below 6 months old), along with unlimited Timothy hay, offer 1/4 cup of Alfalfa hay daily. Protein and calcium are important for growing bunnies.

• For adult bunnies (above 6 months old), it is NOT recommended to feed them Alfalfa hay. Alfalfa hay would be too high in calories and protein for an adult bunny.

• Important things to note about hay:

• If you noticed the hay you purchased has mould, dump the whole package immediately. Bunnies have delicate digestive systems; eating spoiled food could easily lead to severe problems.

• Consequences of eating too much hay? 

• As far as I know and researched, there are absolutely NO adverse effects when a bunny eats large amounts of Timothy hay. The idea of offering unlimited amounts of a certain food might sound strange, as other popular pets such as dogs and cats only have 2 - 3 meals. Bunnies are completely different, their digestive system needs to be constantly moving. Besides, the bunny will stop eating when he/she is full.

• However, too much Alfalfa hay will have a bad effect. The bunny may get addicted to it, refusing to eat Timothy hay. Although somewhat yummier to bunnies, Alfalfa is much lower in fibre compared to Timothy.

2. Pellets

• Amount: 
• 2 - 6 months old: 1 tablespoon full in the morning, another tablespoon full in the evening.
• 6 months and above: 1 tablespoon in the morning, 1 tablespoon in the evening. (1 tablespoon for every 2lb the bunny weighs.)

• Why pellets?

• Pellets - provided they are good and sold by a reputable brand, not simply carelessly packed in a random plastic bag - provides nutrients and calories missing from other foods the bunny consumes.

• Types of pellets
• For young bunnies (below 6 months old), I recommend feeding Oxbow Essentials Young Rabbit Food, which is Alfalfa-based.
  
  

  

  Oxbow Essentials - Young Rabbit Food

• For adult bunnies (above 6 months old), I recommend feeding Oxbow Essentials Adult Rabbit Food, which is Timothy-based.

  

  Oxbow Essentials - Adult Rabbit Food

• Important things to note about pellets:

• The above is my recommendation. However, no matter the brand of pellets you choose, DO NOT ever purchase the following type of pellets:
  
  Colorful pellets - they usually have a high sugar content, despite claiming to be made of vegetables or carrots. This makes the bunny selective; he/she starts choosing sweet foods, such as the pellets, only.
  
  Pellets mixed with nuts/grains/seeds/corns/oats - the added foods are dangerous to bunnies. This is because these foods, when in the intestines of a bunny, produces gas. A built up of gas causes a loss of appetite and may eventually lead to GI stasis.

• So, make sure the pellets you purchase are generally brown in colour and contains nothing else except for the pellets themselves.
  
  
  
  This is how Oxbow Essentials Adult Rabbit Food looks like.
  Other safe rabbit pellets would look similar to this.
  
  
• If you notice any of the pellets are discoloured or mouldy, please do dispose of the whole packet and purchase a new one. Bunnies have delicate digestive systems, and it's always better to be safe than sorry.

• Consequences of eating too much pellets?

• The bunny may become obese. Obesity in bunnies causes other problems like liver disease, heart disease, arthritis, and respiratory issues.

• Reduces amount of hay the bunny consumes. There is not much 'space' left in the bunny's little tummy after he/she finishes the pellets. And less hay consumes means less fibre in a bunny's gut, which leads to an inefficient digestive system.

3. Vegetables and herbs

• Amount: 

• 2 months and below: No veggies yet! 

• 3 - 5 months:  ½  cup of mixed greens daily for every 2lb (~1 kg) the bunny weights. Split into 2 - 3 feedings.

• 6 months and above: 1 - 1½ cup of mixed greens daily for every 2lb (~1 kg) the bunny weights. Split into 2 - 3 feedings.

• Note: Herbs should only make up about 1/4 of the total amount of greens.

• Tip: Imagine the vegetables being grinded up into paste and loosely packed into a measuring cup to estimate the amount.

• Why vegetables?

• Increases the bunny's daily water intake. Water helps the gut to move smoothly.

• Vegetables contains fresh and natural nutrients which pellets and hay may not have.

• Boosts the bunny's mood and makes him/her happy! Bunnies absolutely love fresh vegetables.

• Types of vegetables:
• Baby bok choy
• Cabbage
• Chye sym
• Kale
• Kangkong (aka 'water spinach')

• Types of herbs:
• Basil
• Cilantro (aka 'coriander' or 'Chinese parsley')
• Mint
• Parsley

• Important things to note about vegetables:

• Feed your bunny a variety of vegetables (2 - 3 types) every day, switch the types of vegetables fed every week.
  
  Some vegetables are high in a certain substance and could have unhealthy side effects to the bunny when consumed consecutively for a period of time. For example:
  
  Kangkong - high in oxalic acid/goitrogens
  Sweet potato leaves - high in protein
  Cabbage - high water content (may cause soft stools or even diarrhoea if consumed in excessive amounts) 

• It is essential to wash the vegetables to remove chemical pesticides.

• All vegetables must be fresh. DO NOT give your bunny cooked vegetables.

• Vegetables kept in refrigerators should be taken out 15 minutes prior feeding, so that they wouldn't be chilling-cold when your bunny eats them. Rinse slightly with clean, drinking water to wet the vegetables as well.

• Consequences of eating too much vegetables?

• Reduces hay the bunny consumes. Bunny's head is filled with yummy vegetables only. Again, this means that the bunny would eat less hay!

4. Fruits

• Amount: 
• 2 months and below: No fruits yet!
• 3 - 5 months: 1/4 teaspoon daily for every 2 lb the bunny weights.
• 6 months and above: 1 teaspoon daily for every 2 lb the bunny weights.
  
  
  

• Why fruits:

• As fruits are sweet treats, it boosts the bunny's mood and makes him/her happy.

• Increases bunny's water intake. Water helps the gut to move smoothly.

• Fruits contains natural nutrients which pellets and hay may not have.

• Types of fruits:

• apple (remove skin, seeds and stem)
• banana (remove peel)
• blueberry (it is advisable to split a berry into several parts to prevent choking)
• carrot
• grape (remove skin and seeds)
• guava (remove skin and seeds)
• mango (remove skin and seeds)
• papaya (remove skin and seeds)
• pineapple (remove skin and seeds)
• pear (remove skin and seeds)
• strawberry 
• tomato (remove seeds)
• watermelon (remove skin and both white and black seeds)

• Important things to note about fruits:

• Wash all fruits thoroughly to remove the chemical pesticides on them.

• If there are parts of the fruit you would not consume (eg: slightly flattened/brownish), DO NOT give them to your bunny.

• All fruits given must be fresh. DO NOT give cooked/flavoured/dried fruit to your bunny.

• Consequences of eating too much fruits?

• Reduces bunny's hay intake. Bunny's little head is filled with delicious fruits only - and this leads to reduced consumption of hay.

• Fruits are high in sugar. Consuming too much fruits cultivates an environment suitable for the growth of harmful bacteria in the bunny's gut.

5. Water

• Amount: Fresh, drinking water should be available for your bunny at all times.

• Why water? (Other than the fact that it's needed by all living beings)

• Water allows the gut to act smoothly. Without water, a bunny may have slight constipation even if he/she eats a lot of hay.

• Important things to note about water:

• Even it isn't finished, change your bunny's water at least twice daily to prevent bacterial growth.

• Offer the water you would drink to your bunny. DO NOT give tap water. Bacteria and other potentially harmful substances are present in tap water, which is why humans don't usually drink them either.

Naners and Berries

The sweet scent of fruits diffused throughout the kitchen as the hoomans prepared fruits for their juice. They, of course, prepared a small amount for the two royal bunnies too.

The fruit particles were detected by the relaxing Dutchie within seconds. Dutchie dilated his nostrils to make out what the fruits were.

"Hmm... There are bananas..."thought Dutchie, twitching his nose. "There are berries too... Strawberries? Raspberries? Oh, they are blueberries!"

And so, Dutchie stood up from his royal resting place and bonked the hoomans' legs with his bunny nose.

"Jippie and I request the bananas and blueberries!"commanded Dutchie.

The hooman gave him a quick pet on the head and nodded.

Dutchie was very satisfied at how fast the hoomans reacted this time. Then, he hopped away to tell Jippie, who seemed to have not yet detected the fruit particles, the good news.

"Jippie! Jippppieeee!"said Dutchie loudly in a very high-pitched voice.

"What? Eeesh! Your voice is too sharp, Dutchie!"said Jippie, jumping away and using his paws to block his ears.

"Oops, sorry, Jippie, I am too excited!"said Dutchie, backing a bit.

"What is it, Dutchie?"asked Jippie, listening tentatively with all ears standing up now.

"The hoomans got fruits! I've already tell them to give us some,"said Dutchie.

"YAY!"Jippie's mouth became the shape of a lying-down '3'

Dutchie hopped away after informing Jippie. He went to urge the hoomans by circling around their feet and standing up continuously. "Faster! You are all so slow!"chanted Dutchie.

Jippie helped Dutchie by bonking and biting the puppy pens violently.

"Hurry up, slow hoomans!"yelled Jippie.